Sept 5 ... Savoie to Switzerland

A beautiful sunny cool morning for a drive to Thone and the saturday market. The star of the show was a Beaufort cheese made in summer 2008 that we could simply not resist. Mid morning we began the trek to Switzerland passing by the Mont Blanc Glacier and through the town of Chamonix. Our destination for the day was the region of Etivaz cheese at the east end of Lac Laman.

As we arrive in Etivaz we are greeted by the younger family members of the alpage with their sturdy LandRover and follow them up onto the mountain. It is a long drive up into the mountains where we transfer our gear into the LR and continue to the Alpage with them. We arrive at milking time and when finished the cows are turned back out for the night. We then join the rest of the family for dinner followed by a long discussion of cheese making in the Alps and in America. They are very interested in what is happening in the US.

Night is now upon us and we are all very tired and move to the loft over the barn for some sleep. I say some because activity begins at 5 AM, well before first light as the cows are called in for milking. The evenings milk has been sitting at cool mountain temperature all night so that the natural bacteria can begin to work. While the herd comes in and is milked, the cream that rose during the night is skimmed for butter and creme fraische (Yes lots of that on the mountain).

While the fresh morning and skimmed evening milk come into the vat a wood fire is lit under it to heat the milk. The milk is then warmed, rennet added and allowed to sit still while the milk coagulates and becomes curd.

While the bacteria and rennet are working, the entire family takes advantage of the time for a quick breakfast of coffee and a fresh baked bread that is special to the chalet. Following breakfast it is time to check the curd firmness and it proves to be ready for cutting. The cutting of curd to proper size, cooking the curds, and proper stirring are essential steps to develop the proper cheese moisture for a good ripening. The drier the cheese the longer it can be aged and the more flavor and character it develop.

Once the curd has been cooked well enough for the cheesemakers satisfaction it is time to allow the curds to settle for a period and compact together in the bottom of the vat. Once this is done the curds are retrieved in cloths and carried to the forms that are have been prepared and waiting. A small amount of pressure is then applied and in 30 minutes the cheese is turned over and the weight increased. No salt is added until the 2nd day, then a small amount of dry salt is spread on the surface. The cheese will be kept in the chalet for a maximum of seven days before being taken to the special Etivaz caves in the valley but usually they make the trip every 2-3 days due to limited space in the valleys.

Once the mornings cheese is turned in the final press and since it is Sunday it is time for the family to spend some time together for a special leisurely lunch to which we were invited. This rest will continue until 5PM when it is time to call the cows again for milking. Normally during the other 6 days of the week the family is busy tending to other chores such as animal health, bringing in hay for winter, and improving the Alpine pastures.

Following lunch we bid farewell to the family and return to our hotel in the valley and prepare for another day.