Sept 7 ... In the Valley of Etivaz

Today we will visit the caves where Etivaz is aged. Aging is of great importance in developing the final quality of the cheese. The cheese is brought in by the farmers at regular intervals of up to a week as mandated by the AOC rules for this cheese. They are then salted and brined, dried off and moved to aging area set aside for each family. At 6 months a small portion of the cheese will be selected for a longer aging which may be extended for many years. This cheese will have the rind removed by scrubbing and a light coat of olive oil applied. It will then be moved to a drier aging area where it is stored on edge and turned a quarter turn at regular intervals depending on moisture level. This cheese is called Etivaz Rebibe and may be aged for many years. It is traditionally shaved into very thin strips when served.

In the afternoon we are off to visit another cheese maker who is very unique, being one of the few sheep milk cheese producers in Switzerland. We arrive in the evening to accompany him and his wife into the high peaks to gather the sheep and retrieve the milk. This is one rough journey even with four wheel drive and takes about 20-30 minutes each way. The milking system is quite amazing, bringing in 30 ewes running in 2 lines with the cheese maker and his wife doing the milking from from a recess below the ewes. When one batch finishes the milked ewes are released and another 32 come running in, I just had to wonder what was in the pellets they received during milking. 320 ewes were milked in 10+ batches in about an hour. This time of year only about 1/2 Liter per ewe is produced at each milking. During the summer almost twice as much is provided.
Before heading back down to the valley we went to see the ancient chalet that the family has been working at restoring now for several years. Currently all of the cheese is produced in the valley dairy where they live.

Following the Alpage visit we returned to the farm for a tasting of the cheese they produce. There is quite a variety. Yogurt (which we had for lunch earlier in the day) several fresh cheeses, a soft ripened cheese, and a nice Tomme style cheese. They also produce a wonderful pine bark wrapped cheese that develops a wonderful white coat as the cheese ripens inside. This appears to be similar to a Vacherin Mt D'Or but ripens very differently because it is not a washed rind.

Of course with the cheese we shared a bottle of wine and the discussion ranged from what is happening with cheesemaking in the US on small farms to current farm problems in their region. The biggest problem being animal loss due to lynx and the newly introduced wolf population. It seems that most of the cheesemakers we talk to in the mountains are losing many of their stock.

Sept 5 ... Savoie to Switzerland

A beautiful sunny cool morning for a drive to Thone and the saturday market. The star of the show was a Beaufort cheese made in summer 2008 that we could simply not resist. Mid morning we began the trek to Switzerland passing by the Mont Blanc Glacier and through the town of Chamonix. Our destination for the day was the region of Etivaz cheese at the east end of Lac Laman.

As we arrive in Etivaz we are greeted by the younger family members of the alpage with their sturdy LandRover and follow them up onto the mountain. It is a long drive up into the mountains where we transfer our gear into the LR and continue to the Alpage with them. We arrive at milking time and when finished the cows are turned back out for the night. We then join the rest of the family for dinner followed by a long discussion of cheese making in the Alps and in America. They are very interested in what is happening in the US.

Night is now upon us and we are all very tired and move to the loft over the barn for some sleep. I say some because activity begins at 5 AM, well before first light as the cows are called in for milking. The evenings milk has been sitting at cool mountain temperature all night so that the natural bacteria can begin to work. While the herd comes in and is milked, the cream that rose during the night is skimmed for butter and creme fraische (Yes lots of that on the mountain).

While the fresh morning and skimmed evening milk come into the vat a wood fire is lit under it to heat the milk. The milk is then warmed, rennet added and allowed to sit still while the milk coagulates and becomes curd.

While the bacteria and rennet are working, the entire family takes advantage of the time for a quick breakfast of coffee and a fresh baked bread that is special to the chalet. Following breakfast it is time to check the curd firmness and it proves to be ready for cutting. The cutting of curd to proper size, cooking the curds, and proper stirring are essential steps to develop the proper cheese moisture for a good ripening. The drier the cheese the longer it can be aged and the more flavor and character it develop.

Once the curd has been cooked well enough for the cheesemakers satisfaction it is time to allow the curds to settle for a period and compact together in the bottom of the vat. Once this is done the curds are retrieved in cloths and carried to the forms that are have been prepared and waiting. A small amount of pressure is then applied and in 30 minutes the cheese is turned over and the weight increased. No salt is added until the 2nd day, then a small amount of dry salt is spread on the surface. The cheese will be kept in the chalet for a maximum of seven days before being taken to the special Etivaz caves in the valley but usually they make the trip every 2-3 days due to limited space in the valleys.

Once the mornings cheese is turned in the final press and since it is Sunday it is time for the family to spend some time together for a special leisurely lunch to which we were invited. This rest will continue until 5PM when it is time to call the cows again for milking. Normally during the other 6 days of the week the family is busy tending to other chores such as animal health, bringing in hay for winter, and improving the Alpine pastures.

Following lunch we bid farewell to the family and return to our hotel in the valley and prepare for another day.

Sept 4 Up Into the mountains of Savoie

"Quel Beau Paysage"
.. what a beautiful landscape.

Our second day out. We started out with no plans except to drive upinto one of the high mountain alpage to buy some cheese. This particular one is where I have bought some of the best reblochon in the past. In this mountain pass there are several producers of reblochon and tomme d' savoie where you simply go to the door and ask to buy it.
The cheese comes to you direct from the cave with a beautiful damp mustiness that is so important to the flavor of these cheeses of Savoie

This is also time to stock up on other trip essentials such as Euros and other items we did not need to bring along. Our second day out. No plans except to drive up into one of the high mountain alpage early enough to catch the cheese making if at all possible. This particular one is where I have bought some of the best reblochon the past.

While in town we called another of our favorite reblochon makers and she invited us up to her alpage again for a visit. as you can see by the picture, this chalet was built when cheese makers were much smaller folks. The last visit I made here we visited first in the winter village making cheese and then in the afternoon he cows were moved to the alpage high on the mountain where we visited her the following morning

Along the way today I made this little video of the cows mowing the pastures. The sound of these bells is one you will never forget once you hear it, and yes they are as loud as they sound. Day and Night!

Sept 2-3 On the road to Savoie

from Hartford - Montreal - Geneva was quite smooth and uneventful. An hours drive then takes us up along Lac Leman and into the mountains of Savoie . This is Reblochon country as evidenced by the signs and the presence of the Abondance breed of cows on the high pastures (Alpage). About the only sound in these valleys is from the bells marking each individual cows movement. Once heard you will never forget it.
As we travel through the valleys the "Vente Reblochon" signs are seen leading to many farms. These are usually the best and the freshest since they are the farms own retail cheese and they edit the production knowing this. The rest go off to the aging centers.

Due to our Jet lag we did manage to forget the cardinal rule of traveling in France and Italy "EVERYTHING closes between 12-3" and forget getting anything to eat after 2 and before 7-8

The day was pretty laid back due to the need for sleep. Just a matter of adjusting and getting our bearings.

The Prep and Destinations

Hello, my name is Jim Wallace and I have been the tech person for New England Cheese Making Supply Co. for the past many years. I also teach many workshops on the original aspects of cheese making. My primary resource is the traditional cheese makers of Europe. To do this I must make many trips to visit these folks on their home turf (I know I know ... but someone has to do it!).

I have begun this journal to allow folks to follow on a day by day basis (hopefully I can find some Wi-Fi even in the mountains).

So ....!

September 2009 we are off to spend 3 weeks visiting more cheese makers in the mountains of France, Switzerland, and Italy.

Following many weeks (months actually) of emails and phone calls we have the trip pretty much organized.

Flying into Geneva we will begin in Savoie France, then to the Etivaz area on the eastern end of Lake Lausanne. Following this we cross the Alps dropping onto Lake Como and into the Valtellina region, then to Bolzana and the Trento region of Valsugana for their regional cheeses made in the mountain huts. Asiago is also found at the far end of this valley.

Following this we will travel to the Cinque Terra for a few days to catch our thoughts, then onto the great Cheese Festival sponsored by Slow Foods in Bra Italy. This is one of the largest events of its type with cheese makers from all over the world. We will then wrap it all up with a visit to the Beaufort area of Savoie and back to Geneva.